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Of course we never knew who their inspectors were, but who were their inspectors? My first culinary disaster was a recipe from this book, and it just goes to show you the lack of availability of ingredients in our country at the time. Today, Thomas Keller and Laura Cunningham make their home in a house behind The FrenchLaundry, while they operate fine dining establishmentsas well as casual bistros, cafs and bakeriesin New York, Las Vegas, Beverly Hills and the Napa Valley. The latest restaurant, "ad hoc", opened in September 2006 in Yountville with a different fixed price comfort food dinner served family style every night. He was very, very fascinated with cooking. In the next few years, Keller would pursue his interest in French cooking, developing close relationships with the cooks and proprietors of French restaurants in his own country while applying for jobs in France. My sights to go to France and work in specific restaurants were already defined. I dont want to say the art of repetition, but the ability to respect repetition and embrace it. It may be my last chance. I was in my mid-30s. On January 26, 2004, Keller opened his restaurant Bouchon in Las Vegas. We had never when I say we, Im talking about the community of chefs who have always aspired to be of that quality, not necessarily ever achieving those stars, but to be of that quality. So we had a gathering at the Per Se in New York where we invited the ambassador from France who came, and I thought of my colleagues of course, Daniel, Jerome, Alain Ducasse was there, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and it was a great celebration. We built our new kitchen. And of course Bill Wilkinson was very influential in the hotel world because he opened the first boutique hotel in our country, which was Campton Place in San Francisco. I stopped to see him, say hello, see how he was doing. So you know, I did different things in different kitchens, because each chef needed a stagiaire in a different way. He is the only American chef to have been awarded simultaneous three-star Michelin ratings for two different restaurants. Taking his most . The second summer I decided to go to New York City to try my hand in Manhattan, and that was when I met Serge Raoul. In 2015 we finally reached the podium, the first time the Americans have ever been on the podium in France. They were of age. So its not just we relate to chef as somebody thats only in the kitchen, but remember, its chef de cuisine, chef of the kitchen, chef of the electricians, chef of the plumbers. Learn techniques for cooking vegetables and eggs and making pastas from scratch from the award-winning chef and proprietor of The French Laundry. And I think thats very important, certainly in a kitchen as well as other places in many professions where theres this instant command response. When I wrote The French Laundry Cookbook, it was an important story for me to tell. This was kind of at the end of the era of the La Le restaurants. In his teenage summers, he worked at the Palm Beach Yacht Club starting as a dishwasher and quickly moving up to cook. We finally achieved what we promised, to reach the podium. It was about Pauls dream realized, America reaches the podium. Im very proud to have been part of this. Thomas Keller is the first American chef to receive consecutive three-star Michelin ratings for two restaurants. Each time you made it it was yours, it was not necessarily his. What are your core values? And it wasnt something I had thought about before, but within a half an hour, I defined what they were, just because thats how I felt, and thats how most people are. And in San Francisco we had Herb Caen. So of course, it wasnt going to come until 4:00 in the afternoon, so we had all day to walk around and just kind of try to patiently wait. He actually sat with us, and his wife Sabine told me as we were leaving, she said, You know, Ive never seen my husband ever, ever sit down with anybody in this restaurant. He sat with us for about five minutes and chatted. Its been a great pleasure. Its an extraordinary event, extraordinary undertaking. For movie audiences, a rat with culinary aspirations might be. And it really truly is a learning, a place of learning. And I realized three or four months later that it was a perfect meal. Thats the system that has been in place since Escoffier codified The French kitchen in the early 1900s. There was one farmer who supplied me with my rabbits every week. He was a woodworking hobbyist. And he had great chefs that worked for him. He also holds an honorary doctorate in culinary arts from The . How Thomas Keller's Impact is Changing the Restaurant Industry We do the same thing over and over and over again. So he worked with a couple chefs in helping them raise money, organize their businesses. And then of course the famous dish that they did, which I saw so many times, was the saddle of lamb rognonade, which means that its the saddle of lamb stuffed with its kidneys, served with pommes pures on the side and asparagus. Very simple. [10], Prior to the opening of The French Laundry, Thomas Keller started a small olive oil company called EVO, Inc. in 1992, with his girlfriend of the time, to distribute Provenal-style olive oil and red wine vinegar. The chef was highly regarded, three Michelin stars. D'Artagnan client since 1994. homas Keller needs no introduction. And as time went on we realized that we started selling more and more tasting menus. I guess you also needed to learn who your customers would be. Everybody read Herb Caen whether you liked food or not. Traditionally, in France, is that an unpaid position? So at that right moment, in that right period of time, I was able to put my application in and be approved for an SBA loan. I think the single most important thing you can do the single most important decision you make when youre making a reservation to a restaurant is not what restaurant youre going to, but who youre going with. The next day in the Lyon newspaper, the headlines: Pauls Dream Realized: America Reaches the Podium., Thomas Keller: We got silver. Its popularity waned as the stock market bottomed out and at the end of the 1980s, Keller left, unwilling to compromise his style of cooking to simple bistro fare. They invited me up to meet them. When he was seven his parents separated, and Thomas moved with his mother and two older brothers to Palm Beach, Florida, where his grandmother and great aunts helped raise him and his brothers. In 2011, Keller opened branches of Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills and in New Yorks Rockefeller Center. After his second summer at La Rive, he decided to try his luck in New York City and was hired as chef at Raouls. Keller has joked in the past that the motivation for Bouchon's opening was to give him somewhere to eat after work at The French Laundry. And thats something that comes very much from military. Is there a connection between the fact that you got a book of recipes from the worlds great restaurants and then decided to go and apprentice in France, in the worlds great restaurants? With more than. A California native, and a renowned perfectionist, Chef Thomas Keller is apprentice-trained, and one of America's most well-known and successful chefs the only American-born one with two restaurants that have received three stars from the Michelin Guide. To cook something and overcook it, and then just throw it away would be just a waste of life. One summer, he was discovered by French-born Master Chef Roland Henin and was tasked to cook staff meals at The Dunes Club. Not everybody has that much awareness of it, but for our point of view, the sense of national pride that we have in what we do, the commitment that we have during that two-year process of training, choosing and training those young chefs because it takes a year to train them. America had competed since the beginning but never even came close to the podium. 1996 - 2023 American AcademyofAchievement. As much as he was satisfied, he said, Youre not quite there yet. But Paul Bocuse, who has been an icon in our profession, someone who Ive always looked up to, somebody who changed the way our profession is perceived, somebody whos changed the way we eat, literally changed the way we eat, started a competition, international competition 30 28 years ago to bring the world together on an international level for a culinary competition that resulted in relationship building, in teaching, in awareness and camaraderie, and helping to expand the awareness of our profession around the world. That rabbit, which gave up its life, I had to make sure that I utilized it in the best way I could and every bit of it. But Gourmet magazine picked it up and they thought it was very important. If I was going to make a career, if I was going to be successful in my chosen vocation, I needed to raise this money. And the last, not any more important than the others, was the idea of teamwork and embracing that. Thomas Keller: We opened Bouchon. In 2003, Richard Capizzi became the first pastry chef (not to mention the youngest) to ever sweep the awards at the U.S. [17], In 2012 he announced he was at the point of his career when it was time to step away from the kitchen. It was the first American restaurant to receive this honor. And hell tell the story that he is part American because he has American blood running through his veins. Theres many ways to entertain yourself without spending a lot of money. Kellers mother managed a restaurant in the area, and both Thomas and his older brother Joseph worked in the restaurant kitchen from an early age. We had an extraordinary dinner. I needed to commit myself to doing something I had never done before. He was the first hotelier to really bring in a great restaurant with a great chef and that was Bradley Ogden. Somebody will hire you. I wanted to make sure that I had somewhere to go to. So I passed by out of curiosity. And its up to that organization or that chef to define what youll do. Every day after school hed come home and watch Graham Kerr or Julia Child. After two years in Paris, Keller returned to New York, confident of his abilities in the kitchen and eager to prove he could run a kitchen in a first-rate establishment. I became the chef of Raouls, which was, at the time an outpost in what became SoHo on Prince Street, and it was a classic, classic, French bistro in every way, and it was wonderful. Chef Keller led a team from the U.S. to its first-ever gold medal in the Bocuse d'Or, a prestigious biannual competition that is regarded as the Olympics of the culinary world. But of course there was no recipe for the spinach pasta. The same year, Keller published a book of family-style recipes, Ad Hoc at Home, which spent six weeks on The New York Times bestseller list. A sports franchise kind of mentality as well as a militaristic kind of mentality, because we do have and the same in the military you have hierarchy. Jan Birnbaum was the first. He said, No matter how good of a cook you are, unless theres people in your seats, youre going to fail. Of course I read that after we failed. And great restaurants have to be consistent. It was a four-course menu that changed every day. And of course as a white, middle-class, educated American, I wasnt on the top of the list of somebody the SBA was going to give money to. Of course it became one of those stories that, if it was today, it would have gone viral, but back in those days we didnt have what we have today. If you kept after it year after year after year, that dish evolved into something else. Thomas Keller: Well first, thank you very much for that wonderful compliment. You take a break at 3:00. You dont know. We invite those from our veterans home here in Yountville down to experience a meal around a table in a familiar place with food that is nourishing in every way. And the kitchen that I was in was nothing like any kitchens that I had been in in America. Take the lobster, do this, this, and this, and add this and this and you have this is what lobster Bohemian is. The following year Michelin was going to launch in San Francisco. It had become part of the fabric of restaurants in Napa Valley, and certainly of Yountville. So between private placement, commercial bank loan, and an SBA loan over the period, and with the help of Don and Sally Schmitt and Bob Sutcliffe, my attorney, as well as the 52 partners, we were able to put together enough money to buy The French Laundry, and on May 1, 1994 we finally closed on the deal. The throwback restaurant had been opened in March 2019, and had been his first New York restaurant in 15 years.[19]. Thomas Keller: We did. It was a restaurant in West Palm Beach, Florida. And he flies the American flag above his restaurant. Thomas Keller: No, not really. As time went on and we became more and more popular, we realized that we wanted to add a tasting menu. There were no quantities. Thomas Keller: We became friends. Its always, Oui, chef. Yes. There was that true connection to our suppliers, to those people who produced our food. Youre only doing it because you love the person and because youre responsible for the person and because thats what you do. The rabbit story was a profound moment in my life where I learned that really deep sense of respect for everything that we have coming through our back doors. I had been reading about this restaurant for years. Jean-Luc Naret was coming to San Francisco himself because he wanted to have an after party to celebrate to introduce the Michelin Guide in 2007. He thought that would be the perfect kind of place for me, small, manageable, in a beautiful community here in Napa Valley. He began his career at a young age working in a Palm Beach restaurant managed by his mother. I didnt have a double boiler. I learned six disciplines at the dishwasher which have, I think, become a foundation for my career, and I think for many people who aspire to have success in their careers. Theyre working on the same preparation, the same compositions, the same dishes, the same recipes day in and day out for that entire year period. Its the one hit wonders that are one hit wonders. 1. [20] Other cookbooks that he has written or contributed are The Food Lover's Companion to the Napa Valley, Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide, Ad Hoc at Home (2009) and Bouchon Bakery (2012). They had enjoyed several years of modest success but were now looking to sell their business. [1], In 2005, he was awarded the three-star rating in the inaugural Michelin Guide for New York City for his restaurant Per Se, and in 2006, he was awarded three stars in the inaugural Michelin Guide to the San Francisco Bay Area for The French Laundry. The new restaurant got off to a good start, but the stock market crash of 1987 cut deeply into their business. So at the time I was born he was stationed in Camp Pendleton, which is right near Oceanside in California. Our first year was 2009. Thomas Keller: La Rive was outside of Catskill. Chefs use science to develop their food preparation techniques and invent new methods of cooking. And he agreed to do it. I should have read that before. And it was interesting, because at the time of the announcement, Laura and I were in France for I believe it was a Traditions et Qualit conference, which is a French association that we belong to. So we were producing if it was five, we were producing 40 items, 40, 45 items a day. Frise salad with . The more choices you had, the more luxurious it was. And of course at that time I was very young in my profession and I said, Well, how can I make pasta green? And I learned at that moment a profound respect for the ingredients that we have, a profound respect for those individuals who bring them to us, and how committed they are to what they do, and how committed I have to be to what Im doing to respect what they do. Given free rein, he built a smokehouse to cure meats, developed relationships with local livestock purveyors and learned to cook entrails and offal under his old mentor, Roland Henin, who would drop by on occasional weekends. Thomas Keller: It was a very difficult time in New York City. And this olive oil was a small olive oil company I began to kind of keep me solvent in some ways, but also keep me motivated and keep me busy and have kind of I wouldnt even call it plan B. So he called his son, who then called his best friend, Daniel Boulud, who called me, and said the three of us are going to form a foundation to support the competition, to support a U.S. team in competing in France. And of course, I make the critical mistake of only being able to grab one of the hind legs of the rabbit. There were not that many great chefs recognized other than some of the great chefs of France. And it was really about Marines and their ability to stalk, their ability to be calm, their ability to pounce quickly and seize their prey. We converted the restaurant into Caf Rakel. Keller spent the next three summers at La Rive in Catskill, where he learned to source produce locally, growing many of his own vegetables, and even trying to kill and dress small game, an experience that gave him greater respect for those who produce the food we eat. The two would work so closely together that within a year she had moved in with him in the house behind the restaurant, and the couple have become partners in life as well as business. From there, he honed his skills at the heart of Thomas Keller's Restaurant Group, rising from a sous chef at Per Se to the executive pastry chef at both Per Se and Bouchon Bakery within a mere two years. The first and most important thing, he said, was to make sure that when you reach into the cage, that you grab both the hind legs simultaneously. I dont know if theres a hospitality gene as much as theres a nurturing gene. And that was my room. It was in the era of Chez Panisse, you know. My mother passed away in 1982 so I had gone to France in 1983 but my father was, I have to say. I wanted to try new things. I thought, If Im going to do this, I need to do it now. And I went back to Los Angeles. It was a wonderful restaurant. It was on West 45th Street in West Palm Beach, right next door to the jai-alai fronton. We are only as good as those who come after us. From the beginning, did you have the idea of doing a tasting menu, rather than a long menu of choices? And we thought this location was just like the perfect location. And so in conversations with the dining room, the course of a persons experience there was they would come in and they would ask they finally got into The French Laundry, it was a great it was a wonderful moment for them. No one told you those things. Thomas Keller: That they do. Thomas Kellerdrew closer to the realization ofa longtime dream when hisTeam USA won the silver medal atthe 2015 Bocuse dOr competition in Lyon, France. Keller and Cunningham opened a more casual establishment, Bistro Bouchon, in Yountville in 1998. His employers there, Pierre and Anne-Marie Latuberne, recommended him to Ren and Paulette Macary, who operated a restaurant of their own, La Rive, in Catskill, New York during the summer season. And one thing they said, Its not open enough. They were only open four days. During summers, he worked as a cook in Rhode Island. He combined his thorough knowledge of French tradition with his own flair for humor and imagination, offering his guests a seemingly endless series of exquisite small plates, such as a miniature ice cream cone of salmon tartare, or a small serving of oysters and caviar resting on a bed of tapioca. In 2004 he published "The Bouchon Cookbook," although he gives most of the credit to Bouchon chef Jeffrey Cerciello. He became a cook. The pigeon was beautiful. You know, working with a group of other young men in a line, in a high-stress environment where its very intense and youre cooking food. Fortunately, my persistence paid off and I had eight different stages in observation, permission to have observation at a restaurant. It had been here for a long time. But not only did I have to raise money from private partners, I had to buy the property. Thomas Keller: I think its helped me understand and analyze what I do, and try to attach other examples of other professions to what I do, in trying to understand and elevate our profession. I was a stagiaire and I was doing a stage, which is, you know, you go into somebodys its almost like its an apprenticeship, if you will. Were committed to one another. We had a beautiful foie gras to start, and we had I forget the dessert. And to reach the podium for the first time, Daniel, Jerome and I felt that we had finally been able to give Paul what we promised. But it wasnt about the team that won gold. Ren and his wife would come to South Florida in the wintertime because they would close their restaurant, and he was looking for a chef for the following summer and Pierre recommended me, so I moved to Catskill. The ignorance allowed me to do it. Cooking wasnt the question, but could I lead a team better? Hes that person thats going to support you, thats not going to let you fall and dont let him fall, and really its a team. We try to limit the choices, relieve the anxiety, and give somebody an experience that then, when they leave the restaurant, its memorable. And he would always tell me he would save me a dollar on a basket of strawberries, or he would be able to get an extra couple quarts of milk. I understood it. And cheese, the cheese cart always comes by in France, and you have so many selections. Thomas Keller: Michelin announced that they were going to come to America. Keller served as a consultant on the feature film Spanglish, and in collaboration with restaurant designer Adam D. Tihany, created K + T, a collection of silver hardware and cocktail ware for Christofle Silversmiths. I mean that became the catch phrase. Even though I hadnt spent a lot of time with my father growing up, in my early 20s I made a reconnection with him and certainly we rekindled our relationship and he was very supportive, even though he didnt understand what I did. You had to do different things at different times of the day, which began which were part of the ritual of your job. One of the first employees to sign on was a young woman named Laura Cunningham, a Berkeley graduate with some experience in the Napa restaurant scene. And Raphael was run just like the restaurants ran in France. The parmesan was the grated kind that you found in the green shaker. Favorite Restaurant Restaurant Experts' Poll, Outstanding Wine Service Award, James Beard Foundation, 2001, Outstanding Service Award, James Beard Foundation, 2003. Were they going to be Americans? It was a normal thing and it still is today. That year it won three International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) awards for Cookbook of the Year, Julia Child "First Cookbook" Award, and Design Award. Thomas Keller: The books that I read as a kid were mostly adventure books. That sounds wonderful. Thomas Keller: My father was a Marine. You have truly defined haute cuisine in this country. And the level of the success or the result of the recipe was based on your current ability. So I was shuffled between very loving, dedicated, committed women, and it was really a wonderful childhood, if you will. Thats just what you do. And I always say my biggest asset at the time was my ignorance. We all have our own core values, and I think that we can identify them when pressed to find them. Of course, I thought that because of the things that I learned, and because of the ability to execute what I wanted to do, because of my ability to organize a kitchen, I thought that I was invincible. It certainly is very gratifying to see the interest now. Of course I didnt have any resources whatsoever. And he said, Thomas, I want to be the first to congratulate you. After two years, he moved to Rhode Island, working first as chef de partie at the Clarke Cooke House, and the following summer at the Dunes Club in Narragansett. And they wanted hot dogs and hamburgers. Teaches Cooking Techniques I: Vegetables, Pasta, and Eggs. Working on the film Spanglish, Keller designed and taught star Adam Sandler to cook what is often called "the world's greatest sandwich", as a plausible example of what a talented bachelor gourmet might cook for himself.